Curly hair has always been fascinating but the beauty and versatility of today's ethnic hairstyles is truly unbelievably striking. On an average kwakoe day in the Bijlmer or a keti-koti dei in Paramaribo you see one artistic creative hairstyle after another passing by and just when you think you've seen it all , you are once again hit with a stunning piece of hair art. Whether it's loks, braids or kwiekwie-ba, it's all so infinitely beautiful and fascinating that you sometimes wonder where it all suddenly comes from.
When I read about Mama Pansa in the book “Tenderheaded” I couldn’t suppress my sense of pride. She was a Surinamese Maroon woman who braided padi (rice seed) into her hair so that she and the other runaway slaves could plant rice and have food to eat wherever they might end up. The same book also contains a piece about the hairstyle “Meet me on the corner” of the Surinamese Maroons. This sounded very familiar because in Surinamese culture there is an an g isa (head scarf) with the same name. The original title is “Mit me na tap na oekoe” and it will probably be named after this hairstyle. Reading about Surinamese hairstyles in this American book not only made me proud it was also an inspiration to investigate how history and frizzy hair were intertwined.
A unique opportunity presented itself when I was allowed to hold a book presentation during the Carifesta festival that was organized by Suriname last year. More than promoting my book, I wanted to make it a day to put frizzy hair in the spotlight. It had to be a day to give frizzy hair the honor it deserves. Not only the care and versatility of this hair type had to be highlighted, but also the history and the associated authentic hairstyles that have survived history. That is how the Sibi Wiri Dei was born; literally translated as Hair Knowledge Day. A day for everyone who wants to know more about the care, versatility and history of frizzy hair. And yes, for everyone, including women with relaxed hair.
Organizing this event gave me the opportunity to talk extensively with people about hair and an excuse to openly stare at the hairstyles. It was an inspiration to see that more teenagers and women wore their hair naturally than I could remember. The hairstyles were not only very beautiful but also very creative, mainly inspired by the video clips from American hip hop culture and often finished in a characteristic Afro-Surinamese way. The difference between the hair of the women from the interior and those from Paramaribo is striking. Not only are the hairstyles different, the hair itself also seems to differ from that of the city woman. Most Maroon women wear their hair naturally their entire lives. They have never relaxed and that makes a big difference. The hair looks completely natural, healthy and thick and that gives the frizzy hair a beautiful look.
The hairstyles differ because the domestic culture differs from that of the city. Slavery began in Suriname in 1667 and lasted until 1863. During that period, the Maroons developed their own culture deep in the interior of Suriname. In order to survive, the runaway slaves developed closed communities deep in the interior, as far away from the city and the plantations as possible. Since there was hardly any contact with the western outside world, it did not influence the fusion of African cultures in the interior. As a result, various original African traditions have been well preserved. The hairstyles are only a small part of that.
In the meantime, presses and relaxers have penetrated the inland communities. The women who left the village for a career in the city often returned with the so-called distinguished "smooth hair" hairstyles. This has not left its mark. The women who stayed behind, who often looked up to those who had made it in the big city, also wanted the same hairstyles and in this way, unnatural hair care has made its entrance into various inland communities. The fact that most Maroon women still wear their hair naturally is because many cannot afford to relax it financially. The fact that afro hairstyles are now in fashion also has its influence. It makes people less interested in making their hair smooth and some of the relaxed women even go back to the natural way of hair care. For them, this is not only cheaper but also much easier.
Because Afro-ethnic hairstyles are in, the Maroon culture is also influencing city life in Paramaribo. Since these trendy ethnic hairstyles are based on very old techniques that the Maroon women still know and master, this offers new career opportunities for these women. Many find work in a hair salon or start their own hair business. The Maroon women also attach even more value to their traditional hair care and wear their natural hair with even more pride than before. Now that traditional hairstyles are increasingly part of the daily street scene in Paramaribo, you see more and more beautiful authentic hairstyles. The hairstyles vary from simple to very complicated, but even the simplest ones make an impression. You keep looking at the complicated ones even though you realize that you will probably never understand them and you wonder how much there is still to learn about African culture in the diaspora when you see the simple ones. If the care of natural frizzy hair has almost been lost, what else has been lost? As I continue to see and learn more about it, I continue to admire frizzy hair and the endlessly creative hairstyles. Hopefully they are more than just a feast for the eyes and will also provide a deeper cultural awareness for others.